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When compiling a list of London’s finest dining spots, one might foresee renowned award-winning names. But, situated high among these gastronomic giants is a simple salonu situated in a outlying area of northern London.

An Surprise Honour

This small Turkish restaurant, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the city by a prominent culinary publication. The honour has made the family totally astonished.

“I’m completely astonished,” says the proprietor, referring to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their humble shop achieving such a high position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The little venue, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after destination, has retained much of its earlier feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking display, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” comments the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the cuisine, and this eatery more than excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in slowly. Once the savoury mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a more intense, toastier and not overly sweet profile.

Rising Above the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for under £25, equivalent meals at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

A Philosophy of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is echoed by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to show them the traps of excess, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at fancy establishments. “I feel truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is set to echo beyond its own walls. “I think a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the wider significance of this culinary achievement.